Center Console Forum

Center consoles from 18 to 30 feet. Hulls, outboards, salt, and what people paid.

Accounts by email request

Home/Outboards, electronics and care/ablative or hard bottom paint

ablative or hard bottom paint on a boat that sits in a slip all summer and gets hauled for winter

38°59'N 76°30'Wstarted by bottom_paint_seasonNov 24, 2025in Outboards, electronics and care6 posts

#1

2010 Key West 2300 Bluewater, Suzuki DF250. wet slip in Back Creek from April through mid November, then hauled and on jack stands in the yard till spring. the yard just hauled it and the bottom has three seasons of hard paint on it. some barnacles near the transom and the trim tabs.

i'm going to sand and repaint this winter because the paint is getting thick and lumpy. question is whether to stay with hard paint or switch to ablative. reasons i'm thinking ablative: you can haul and relaunch without repainting, and it doesn't build up as bad. reasons i'm scared: it wears off and i'm in a slip with a lot of growth by August.

#2

the main thing with a hard modified epoxy is the launch window. most of them have to go in the water within some number of days after the last coat, or they lose effectiveness. if you paint in March and the yard doesn't splash you till May, that matters. ablative doesn't care.

i'd also check whether your old hard paint is compatible with the ablative you want. most ablatives can go over a sanded hard paint but read the can. a paint going on top of the wrong one will sheet off in a summer.

#3

i keep mine on a lift so no paint, but the guy in the next slip down here uses an ablative and touches up only the waterline and the spots that wore every spring. he's had the same base for six or seven years.

Chesapeake growth is a different world than the Outer Banks though. you get the tunicates and the barnacles in that warm summer water.

#4

i'm a trailer guy so no direct experience. but my cousin keeps a Grady in Panama City and switched to ablative after he went from a full year in the water to hauling from December to March. he said the ablative wore through at the bow first because that's where the water's fastest. so put an extra coat on the leading edge, waterline and running gear if you go that way.

#5

i ran a hard paint in Great River on my previous boat and switched to ablative on the Canyon. it's softer so it'll scuff when you bump it on the trailer bunks, and it'll come off on your hands if you touch it. that's how it's supposed to work.

as for the sanding: wear a real respirator, not a paper mask. bottom paint dust is copper and other stuff you don't want in your lungs, and most yards in Maryland have rules about sanding with a vacuum system. ask yours before you buy a sander.

#6

going ablative. the yard requires a dustless sander and they rent one for $85 a day, so that's what i'll use in march. i'll sand the hard paint back to a smooth base, prime the bare spots, and do two coats of ablative with a third at the waterline and the bow like you said. Pettit has the compatibility chart on pettitpaint.com, and my old hard paint is fine under their ablatives once it's sanded.

estimate is about $520 in paint and $170 in rentals and sandpaper. the yard wanted $2,900 to do it.

Log in to reply. No account? Write the mods, it usually takes a day or two.

Also worth reading

Tagged

  • bottom paint
  • ablative
  • hard paint
  • Chesapeake
  • winter haul